\ How To \ V4 Carb Removal and
Installation\ How To
We all know that the V4's are great bikes, but let's be
real - they can be a pain to work on. One of the trouble spots that
I've found really frustrates people is carburetor removal and
installation. This really isn't that bad if you know some
tricks. I will outline what I do and hopefully you will find
Here is what you want to start
with. This happens to be a 1000R, but no matter what model you
are working on you want to remove the bodywork to allow easier
access to everything.
first step is to disconnect or remove the following: airbox and
filter, fuel line, vent hose (where applicable), ignition coils,
airbox breather hose and the choke cable. You will then loosen
the upper clamps on the carb boots (insulators).
NO JAMIE, DON'T DO IT!!!
It's ok, as long as you are careful this will be all
right. This is where you pry the carbs out of the boots. A
long screwdriver sometimes works, but I've that this pry bar is the
easiest. Work the carbs out of the boots with small pushes,
don't just push down really hard at first. Go back and forth
between the rear two carbs to work them out.
Here is a better view of where to pry on the carb
body. Make sure not to pry on the top of the carb at the
diaphragm cover. The body is thin in that area and can break
easily. There is a nice protrusion right at the carb boot that
works perfectly. The arrow is pointing at the tip of the pry
Tilt the carbs forward to fully remove the rear two
from the boots.
Pull up on the front two and the whole rack comes
out. At this point you can remove the throttle cables.
Positioning the carbs as shown is what I've found to be the best.
Now that you are done with rejetting or rebuilding, you
must reinstall the carbs. This is actually the hard part.
What I do is to tilt the rear boots upward as shown. Don't push
them down over the spigots, just lay them as shown.
Push the front two carbs into their boots as far as
possible. Tilt the rear two down until they just contact the
rear boots. The carbs will be positioned as shown.
A nice thin screwdriver is a big help here.
You'll use it like a shoehorn to help the rear edge of the boot slide
over the carb. Sometimes a little grease on the inside of boot
helps too. Keep constant downward pressure on the airbox base
plate and work the rear carbs into their boots. Once they are in
make sure all carbs are fully seated. Tighten all clamps and
reinstall all cables and hoses.
The carbs will need to be synchronized after this
process. They often get
tweaked by the prying and pushing. I
typically do this every other time if I'm rejetting or have had
them removed recently.
In the steps shown above the coil assembly was
left attached. Some people find it easier to remove them
from the bike. To me, that's just one more thing to take off
and put back on!